The Dark Side

Perhaps the most eagerly anticipated release of 2015 is here. Star Wars: The Force Awakens Alex Hannold Climbs Angola:

Steel Fingers 2

My current Steel Fingers program takes 37 minutes to complete (not including warm up), and looks like this:

1. BLOCK 1 (14 minutes total to complete)
   Set 1: Full-Crimp Grip (7s:3s x 6 sets/60s)
   Two-Handed Hang with arms in deep lock-off.
   Rest 180s/3 minutes.
   
   Set 2: Open Hang Grip (7s:3s x 6 sets/60s)
   Two-Handed Hang with arms in deep lock-off.
   Rest 180s/3 minutes.
   
   Set 3: Half-Crimp Grip (7s:3s x 6 sets/60s)
   One-Armed Hang with arm in deep lock-off.
   Rest 300s/5 minutes.
   
   (Wrist push ups x 10)


2. BLOCK 2 (14 minutes total to complete)
   Set 4: Full-Crimp Grip (7s:3s x 6 sets/60s)
   Two-Handed Hang with arms in 90 degree lock.
   Rest 180s/3 minutes.
   
   Set 5: Open Hang Grip (7s:3s x 6 sets/60s)
   Two-Handed Hang with arms in 90 degree lock.
   Rest 180s/3 minutes.
   
   Set 6: Half-Crimp Grip (7s:3s x 6 sets/60s)
   One-Armed Hang with arm in 90 degree lock.
   Rest 300s/5 minutes.
   
   (Wrist push ups x 10)
   
   
3. BLOCK 3 (9 minutes total to complete)
   Set 7: Full-Crimp Grip (7s:3s x 6 sets/60s)
   Two-Handed Hang with arms in arms almost straight.
   Rest 180s/3 minutes.
   
   Set 8: Open Hang Grip (7s:3s x 6 sets/60s)
   Two-Handed Hang with arms in arms almost straight.
   Rest 180s/3 minutes.
   
   Set 9*: Half-Crimp Grip (7s:3s x 6 sets/60s)
   One-Armed Hang with arm in arms almost straight.
   *There is no allotted rest time after the last set.

Steel Fingers 1

In my bid for fingers of steel, and after a long lay off from climbing, I have formulated the following finger program based upon Encores and Repeaters and Ben Davidson's program.

My digits are weak at the moment so I need to use two handed hangs.  I've been foot-on laddering twice a week for a few weeks in an attempt to condition my fingers, but now is the time to specialise!

A quick word about my warm up prior to the climbing routine.  It is similar to my generic warm up - joint rotations and limb swings.  Then to a bit of rope climbing to work shoulders and elbows, and to give the full hand a shakedown.  Finally I do some light finger work on the campus board - all foot-on, and then with a few foot-off moves.  This takes around 20 minutes.

Terminology & Broad Outline

• The basic exercise is a HANG which comprises 7s Time Under Load (TUL) with 3s rest for a chosen GRIP.
• The hang is repeated five times (so six hangs in all) - which means 60s of work.  This is a SET.
• Three SETS form a BLOCK.
• Each of the three SETS within a BLOCK uses a different GRIP.
• The GRIP chosen will be one of:
  - Full crimp,
  - Half crimp, and,
  - Open crimp. 
• Rest times between each SET within a BLOCK is 180s (3 minutes).
• Each BLOCK is repeated for a total of three times with
  - Arms almost straight,
  - Arms at 90 degrees, and,
  - Arms in a full lock position.
• The rest between BLOCKS will be 5 minutes.

Finger Strength

Some good ideas from guys with strong fingers.  First up...Eva Lopez has some great articles on finger strength and how to develop it here.  There is LOTs to absorb on this site.

Next up, a short video from Chris Webb Parsons:


Chris Webb Parsons Hangboard Program from Climblox.com on Vimeo.

And lastly a guy who went from non-climber to 8C within a year!  Ben Davidson Secrets of the Powerful:

• Repeaters: 3 sets. 6 or 7 grips per set. 1 minute of 7 seconds hanging, 3 seconds rest per grip. 2 and a half minutes rest between grips, and 6 minutes between sets. That’s your basic structure, tweak it as necessary. You should aim to have the intensity such that you fail on the last second of each minute. These is the grip types I have been using on the beastmaker 2000:
  
  30 minute progressive warmup.
  
  Half crimp on 15mm rung – I find 4 finger too easy, but 3 too hard, so I alternate one hand with 3 fingers the other 4.
  
  Slopers – again, I find the 35′s too easy and the 45′s too hard. I used to use 3 fingers on the 35 to make it harder, now I use hand on the 35 and one hand on the 45′s, but use my thumb and nestle my index against the crease to make it possible. Just.
  
  3 finger drag on 15mm rung
  
  Half crimp again – I feel like this is one of my weaker grips and is used often in climbing which is why I do it twice
  
  Middle 2 small pockets
  
  Back 2 – one hand in back 2 pocket, one hand in medium pocket
  
  front 2 small pockets

Some previous posts on this topic include 321s, the Metolius routines, the Moon Deadhanging routine and finally some thoughts on Digit Strength.

Mastodon!

I have diverse musical tastes but mainstream rock, metal and a bit of progressive rock dominate my music collection.  All these elements have been masterfully combined by the superb Mastodon on their epic 'Crack the Skye'.

Some of my other interests include rock guitar and rock climbing.  In this video below you can see Mastodon combining all these elements in to one track, Divinations, and it even has a 'paleo' ending!

Rawk !"!


Mastodon: Divinations - New Video

Mastodon | Myspace Music Videos

Volume Wk4 W/O1

Warm Up (5 mins)
Main (30 mins)
1. Sprinting (10s, 10s, 10s, 10s)

2a. Advanced Frog Planche (1x20s, 1x20s, 1x20s)
2b. L-Sit Rope-Climb to Lock Offs (2, 2, 2)
2c. Cuts to Split Scissors (3x3, 3x3, 3x3)

3 Fingerboard Routine (10min)

4. Handstand (Play@LGKF for time)

The rope climbing pulls something deep out from within. You coil organically around it as you tube upwards. The grip is taxed as are the forearms, shoulders and upper back. The L-sit ensure the core partakes in these 'good times'. Lower on one arm is a killer; preceded each step of the way by a second or so of 'lock off'. So many hits in so little time.

The naure of this workout meant I had enough left to really tackle the fingerboard routine. I didn't completely finish the routine to satisfaction but in terms of dose and response, I had it nailed to perfection.

I feel I am finally getting the hang of making my workouts spontaneous and varied enough from week to week without getting stuck in a rut, nor lacking some coherence and pattern in my training.

I have begun to focus on planes of motion at each workout but use profoundly different exercises to traverse that plane of motion. Add in some set, rep and weight/duration variety and job's a good'un.

This workout was quite short (ignoring the fingerboard workout at the end). I was done in less than 20 minutes. It was hard, but I need to ensure I have some hustle left for Wednesday's workout.

Importantly this is yet another workout where I left feeling really positive and happy, whilst ever so slightly toasted!

Monday Climbing Session

I wanted to have some time off, but having rested Friday, I am itching for some work! The ritual of unlocking and preparing the garage gym in winter is becoming quite a source of inspiration...Much needed on a cold night.

Warm Up (5 mins)
Main (25* mins)
1a) Sprint (2x10s)/Assisted Pistols (1x6)
1b) Frog Planch (30s, 30s)
1c) Tuck Lever (30s, 30s)

2a) Ring Cuts (3x6 each way)
2b) Rope Climb to Cirques (2 'laps')

3a) Kill Carry* (5 minutes of walking with a shouldered punch bag - 35kg)

4a) Fingerboarding

• 1st minute 15 second hang, 3 pull-ups, Large Edge
• 2nd minute 2 pull ups, Round Sloper 20 second hang, Medium Edge
• 3rd minute 20 second hang, Small Edge 15 second 90º bent arm hang, Pocket
• 4th minute 30 second hang, Round Sloper
• 5th minute 20 second hang, Large Edge 4 pull-ups, Pocket
• 6th minute 3 offset pulls each arm (high arm jug, low arm small hold), Jug/Small Edge Change hands and repeat
• 7th minute 15 knee raises, Jug 15 second hang, Medium Edge
• 8th minute 25 second hang, Medium Edge
• 9th minute 15 second hang, Slope 3 pull-ups, Jug
• 10th minute Hang as long as you can, Round Sloper

I made two passes through 1a - 1c, although I finished with an additional set of pistols. I made three laps of 2a-2b. Then there was a Kill Carry and to finish, a fingerboard session.

With the Cirques, emphasis is on the 'lock-off' and the gradual lowering with one arm. Take care as 'brutal' is the name of the game.

Climbing Workout (Growth)

My climbing workout has evolved once again - this time, to allow me on occasion to push myself in to physical exhaustion. At the moment I want to intersperse this kind of workout with my Hunt-oriented workouts.

I completed three sets through each group of exercises. Form was maintained throughout. The first two sets were completed to a point of where mentally I felt I could not complete another complete rep. The third and final set was completed to momentary muscular failure.

The negative portion of each exercise was always done under strict control and slower than the positive phase.

Warm Up (5 mins)
Main (20 mins)

1a) Sprint (10s, 10s, 15s)
1b) L-Sit Muscle Ups to Basic Ring Routine to Tuck Lever (6MUs, 4MUs, 3MUs)
1c) Fingerboard Laddering

2a) Ring Splits (6, 6, 5)
2b) Tuck Planche (6s, 6s, 5s)
2c) Deadhang Repeaters (3a:7r:120s on small rungs)

The shorter grouping allowed me to mentally REALLY focus on each exercise - and working on the final sets to a point of failure gave me firm feedback of my level of exertion.

Shoving all the gymnastic stuff in to this workout feels good - and as long as I alternate between my hunt workout (which I might tweak further), I look forwards to how this change of approach will manifest itself.

Certainly I am aching deeply today from this new intensity. I am also hungry for Fridays dabble with resistance. Both are good indicators.

These workouts are often completed fasted. On a Monday I don't eat until 2200hrs - and I manage both the workout above and my Lau Gar session in complete comfort with regards to my appetite. Mentally I feel it gives me an edge.

Variety eh? The spice of life.

Climbing (Migratory) Workout

The nights are drawing in. It is getting colder. Winter is nearly upon us. Thus, I move to a greater emphasis on the 'hunting' elements of my workout. The paleo model mandates seasonal food - and I mandate seasonal exercise.

So if there is snow on the ground, you ain't doing much running. If there is snow on the ground you ain't eating much fruit. If there is snow on the ground you are hunting big game - and hauling its carcass back to camp! Time to head north and work the Kill Carry!

Ok - this is all romantic BS - but seasonal change is as good a reason as any to jazz up your workouts with whatever it takes to keep your enthusiasm stoked!

Warm Up (5 mins)

Main (25* mins)
1a) Sprint (The Chase - 15s) - I said 'much', not none!
1b) Ring Splits (6)
1c) Five L-Sit Muscle Ups to Basic Ring Routine to 5s Lever
1d) Laddering (3-grip)

2a) Pistols (five per leg - The Fight)
2b) Ring Splits (6)
2c) Four L-Sit Muscle Ups to Basic Ring Routine to 5s Lever
2d) Laddering (3-grip)

3a) Weighted 10kg Vest Kill Carry* (5 minutes of walking with a shouldered punch bag - 35kg)3b) Ring Splits (6)
3c) Four L-Sit Muscle Ups to Basic Ring Routine to 5s Lever

4a) Assorted 10 min dead hanging routine

The big news was the five unassisted pistols on each leg. I reckon I could have done at least another one on each leg but held back a bit knowing that the Kill Carry (KC) would be done with a weighted vest as well as the punch bag.

I headed off on the KC at a brisk pace and walked with purpose. I returned to 'camp' blowing quite hard, but psyched for that last little section of the routine.

I am looking forwards to doing a Kill Carry in the cold nights and during the snow. One of THE best workouts of last year involved just such an event - light snow and the shouldering of a burden (not too heavy though)!

The whole session was about 45 minutes I guess - but you could knock at least 10 minutes off if you ignored the specialised deadhanging exercises at the end....unless you want to climb!

Climbing (Hunt) Workout

This Monday workout is climbing specific - but seems to be mutating. I am not yet in a position to assess how my finger strength is coming on in real terms, but broad strength seems to be improving - particularly with the muscle ups.

I have decided to vary the exercises quite a bit and put the hunt back in to my training. Each 'group' should take around five minutes (apart from the Kill Carry which adds five minutes on its own):

Warm Up (5 mins)
Main (25* mins)

1a) Sprint (The Chase - 15s)
1b) Ring Splits (5)
1c) Five L-Sit Muscle Ups to Basic Ring Routine to Lever
1d) Laddering (Medium)

2a) Pistols (three per leg - The Fight)
2b) Ring Splits (5)
2c) Four L-Sit Muscle Ups to Basic Ring Routine to Lever
2d) Laddering (Medium)

3a) Kill Carry* (5 minutes of walking with a shouldered punch bag - 35kg)
3b) Ring Cuts (5 per leg)
3c) Two laps of L-Sit Rope Climbing
3d) Laddering (Hard)

I finished of with some intense one and two armed deadhanging for around 5-10 minutes (until technique faltered). I am liking the variation and letting instinct lead me more in each workout.

Note to self; I need to make sure I give more and not let the session extend much more towards 30 minutes.

The kill carry felt like a bit of a rest, and heading back to the garage for that last set I was heavily 'stoked' to pull hard!

Climbing Workout

Hmmm - a big step backwards on the deadhanging today! My fingers really did not fire. I took it in my stride. No point getting worked up about it. I need to rest. I think Doug at BBS has the answer to my problem!

I was trying a rep scheme of 5/3/1.

Warm Up (5 mins)
Main (10 mins)
1a) Laddering (5/3/1x15-rung)
1b) L-Sit Muscle Ups to Basic Ring Routine to Lever (3x5/3/1 on MUs)
1c) Ring Scissors (3x5/3/1 scissors)

The last set was done slowly in each case to ensure maximal effort. I finished with a ten-minute deadhanging routine. I think I need a bit more rest after deadhanging! I climbed outdoors on Saturday and suspect that I was not fully recovered.

Climbing Routine

I did an intense, but not very dense workout tonight. The MUs and Scissors involved four seconds in the positive phase, a hold for four seconds, and then four seconds in the negative phase of the exercise. This figure was adjusted to maintain intensity as appropriate.

Warm Up (5 mins)
Main (10 mins)
1a) Laddering (3x5-rung)
1b) Three L-Sit Muscle Ups to Basic Ring Routine to Lever (3sets)
1c) Ring Scissors (3x3 scissors)

I finished with a variation of the Moon routine here.

Climbing Workout

I felt a bit subdued today and decided to have a 'suck it and see' finger strength oriented workout. It was a decidedly cut-down affair with up to five minute rests between each successive set.

Warm Up (5 mins)
Main (20 mins)
1a) Laddering (3x5-rung)
1b) Four L-Sit Muscle Ups to Basic Ring Routine to Lever (3sets)
1c) Ring Scissors (3x5 scissors)

2) 10 minute 'on the minute' hangs.

Ten Minute Finger Strength Workouts

The Metolius site has some useful looking 10 minute workouts aimed at finger strength which I have copied below. They are quite similar in structure to my fingerboard workouts and are great if you are limited for time (and space):

Entry Level:
1st minute 15 second hang, Jug
2nd minute 1 pull-up, Round Sloper
3rd minute 10 second hang, Medium Edge
4th minute 15 second hang w/ 3 shrugs, Pocket
5th minute 20 second hang w/ 2 pull-ups, Large Edge
6th minute 10 second hang, Round Sloper 5 knee raises, Pocket
7th minute 4 pull-ups, Large Edge
8th minute 10 second hang, Medium Edge
9th minute 3 pull-ups, Jug
10th minute Hang as long as you can, Round Sloper

Intermediate:
1st minute 15 second hang, 3 pull-ups, Large Edge
2nd minute 2 pull ups, Round Sloper 20 second hang, Medium Edge
3rd minute 20 second hang, Small Edge 15 second 90º bent arm hang, Pocket
4th minute 30 second hang, Round Sloper
5th minute 20 second hang, Large Edge 4 pull-ups, Pocket
6th minute 3 offset pulls each arm (high arm jug, low arm small hold), Jug/Small Edge Change hands and repeat
7th minute 15 knee raises, Jug 15 second hang, Medium Edge
8th minute 25 second hang, Medium Edge
9th minute 15 second hang, Slope 3 pull-ups, Jug
10th minute Hang as long as you can, Round Sloper

Advanced:
1st minute 20 seconds straight arm hang, Large Slope 3 pull-ups, 4-Finger Flat Edge
2nd minute 20 seconds slightly bent arm hang, Large Slope, stay on 20 seconds L-sit or 20 hanging knee curls
3rd minute 5 pull-ups, 3-Finger Pocket, stay on 25 seconds straight arm hang
4th minute Use every hold starting at the 3-Finger Pocket and working up, staying on each for 5 seconds (don’t get off to change holds) Finish on Large Slope with a 20 second hang
5th minute 20 seconds single arm hang, Four-Finger Flat Edge switch hands and repeat
6th minute 5 offset pull ups, Large Slope (top hand) 3-Finger Pocket (bottom hand) change hands and repeat
7th minute 30 seconds 90 degree bent arm hang, Four-Finger Incut Edge 15 seconds straight arm hang, 3 Finger Pocket
8th minute 3 L-sit pull-ups (bend knees if you have to) 5 seconds front lever or 15 seconds straight arm hang, Large Slope
9th minute 20 seconds straight arm hang using only 2 fingers on 3 Finger Pockets 3 power pull-ups (use weights or helper for resistance, should just be able to do 3 pulls)
10th minute maximum slightly bent arm hang, Large Slope (go until failure) no rest maximum straight arm hang - Large Slope

Climbing Hunger*

I had the hunger this evening. You know - that point where you just HAVE to do something. When you just want to run fast, rip that weight from the ground or pull hard. There is only one workout I crave at times like this and it involves sprints and rings!

Warm Up (5 mins)
Main (20 mins)
1a) Sprint (3x10s)
1b) Five L-Sit Muscle Ups to Basic Ring Routine to Lever (3sets)
1c) Pistols (3x3)
1d) Tuck Planche (3x7s)
1e) Ring Scissors (3x5 scissors)

Three laps through 1a-1e. Keep all rests short and the tempo high.

*So titled as this workout is based upon my climbing routine. I am not training my fingers as the weather forecast is good for the weekend, so I will be heading out on to the 'real' stuff!

Climbing Workout

This evening I managed to squeeze in a 30 minute workout on my climbing wall. I took big rests - up to 5 minutes, in between attempts. These rests were filled with Kay Bon Sau Fa, Jorn Sau, Charp Choi and Farkuin.

Warm Up (5 mins)
Main (25 mins)

1) Laddering (leading with alternate hands)

2) Ten Minute dead hang sequence.

I have tweaked my inner elbow on the deadhangs so might have been pushing it too far. The laddering feels pretty steady. I feel that my shoulders and back are getting stronger from the ring work and static holds.

Light Climbing Workout

The last workout on Monday broke me for a few days. The ensuing DOMS was intense. I wanted to get on the rings and climbing wall today - but it was sunny outside so I adapted!

Unlike most other workouts, I completed one exercise before moving on the next. I had one minute of rest between each and every exercise. The idea was a brief and mildly-intense workout, but not too hard overall.

Warm Up (5 mins)
Main (15 mins)

1a) Hand Walking (2x 'for time', 1min rest)

2a) Frog Planche (3x20s, 1min rest)

3a) Pull Ups (2x10, 1min rest)

4a) Tuck Body Lever (3x20s, 1min rest)

5a) One Arm Deadhangs (8x '7s on, 3s rest')

Climbing Workout

I have been off work for a week and so have done plenty of running around with my kids for several days. Thus I have done no strength work. This morning I felt hungry to lift and so headed in to the garage for three laps through1a-1f:

Warm Up (5 mins)
Main (15 mins)
1a) Laddering ('for time')
1b) Ring Scissors (5 scissors)
1c) Five L-Sit Muscle Ups to Basic Ring Routine
1d) Fingerboard 'touches'
1e) Tuck Planche (3x5s)
1f) Kneel Backs (3x20s)

2a) Ten-Minute Deadhanging routine

There was greater emphasis on the fingers today and I pushed up the number of muscle-ups. boy did those transitions tax me!

Climbing Workout

Yesterday I headed off with the family to watch Madness in concert. It was a really excellent 'tribal gathering' with 40,000 people singing their heads off in unison (and it gave me a good excuse to wear a fez in public)! Captain Kid and Flash know the words to plenty of their songs and seemed to thoroughly enjoy it!

We got back late and so I was pretty tired today. This evening I got the urge to do a quick workout before Lau Gar.

I performed four cycles through the following, with a set of deadhangs to finish.

Warm Up (5 mins)
Main (15 mins)
1a) Laddering ('for time')
1b) Ring Scissors (5 scissors with a 10s hold on last rep)
1c) Three L-Sit Muscle Ups to Basic Ring Routine
1d) Hill Sprints (4x10s)

2a) Deadhang (7s TUL:3s Rest)