Wednesday, 9 September 2009

Ten Minute Finger Strength Workouts

The Metolius site has some useful looking 10 minute workouts aimed at finger strength which I have copied below. They are quite similar in structure to my fingerboard workouts and are great if you are limited for time (and space):

Entry Level:
1st minute 15 second hang, Jug
2nd minute 1 pull-up, Round Sloper
3rd minute 10 second hang, Medium Edge
4th minute 15 second hang w/ 3 shrugs, Pocket
5th minute 20 second hang w/ 2 pull-ups, Large Edge
6th minute 10 second hang, Round Sloper 5 knee raises, Pocket
7th minute 4 pull-ups, Large Edge
8th minute 10 second hang, Medium Edge
9th minute 3 pull-ups, Jug
10th minute Hang as long as you can, Round Sloper

Intermediate:
1st minute 15 second hang, 3 pull-ups, Large Edge
2nd minute 2 pull ups, Round Sloper 20 second hang, Medium Edge
3rd minute 20 second hang, Small Edge 15 second 90ยบ bent arm hang, Pocket
4th minute 30 second hang, Round Sloper
5th minute 20 second hang, Large Edge 4 pull-ups, Pocket
6th minute 3 offset pulls each arm (high arm jug, low arm small hold), Jug/Small Edge Change hands and repeat
7th minute 15 knee raises, Jug 15 second hang, Medium Edge
8th minute 25 second hang, Medium Edge
9th minute 15 second hang, Slope 3 pull-ups, Jug
10th minute Hang as long as you can, Round Sloper

Advanced:
1st minute 20 seconds straight arm hang, Large Slope 3 pull-ups, 4-Finger Flat Edge
2nd minute 20 seconds slightly bent arm hang, Large Slope, stay on 20 seconds L-sit or 20 hanging knee curls
3rd minute 5 pull-ups, 3-Finger Pocket, stay on 25 seconds straight arm hang
4th minute Use every hold starting at the 3-Finger Pocket and working up, staying on each for 5 seconds (don’t get off to change holds) Finish on Large Slope with a 20 second hang
5th minute 20 seconds single arm hang, Four-Finger Flat Edge switch hands and repeat
6th minute 5 offset pull ups, Large Slope (top hand) 3-Finger Pocket (bottom hand) change hands and repeat
7th minute 30 seconds 90 degree bent arm hang, Four-Finger Incut Edge 15 seconds straight arm hang, 3 Finger Pocket
8th minute 3 L-sit pull-ups (bend knees if you have to) 5 seconds front lever or 15 seconds straight arm hang, Large Slope
9th minute 20 seconds straight arm hang using only 2 fingers on 3 Finger Pockets 3 power pull-ups (use weights or helper for resistance, should just be able to do 3 pulls)
10th minute maximum slightly bent arm hang, Large Slope (go until failure) no rest maximum straight arm hang - Large Slope

2 comments:

James said...

Awesome post with a great amount of detail , I have printed this and intend to use it as a part of my routine.

I have recently decided to launch my own range of fingerboards with only one design at the moment at £29 but with more on the way, check it out! http://grimgrips.tk

James :)

Asclepius said...

Hi James - I checked out your site. Nice design!

I remember the crux of Suspense being tricky (from the big ledge near the top, tyring to move past the peg).

I did Pool Wall some years later and thought that the crux was the bit it shares with Suspense!