Friday, 21 June 2013

Finger Strength

Some good ideas from guys with strong fingers.  First up...Eva Lopez has some great articles on finger strength and how to develop it here.  There is LOTs to absorb on this site.

Next up, a short video from Chris Webb Parsons:

Chris Webb Parsons Hangboard Program from on Vimeo.

And lastly a guy who went from non-climber to 8C within a year!  Ben Davidson Secrets of the Powerful:
  • Repeaters: 3 sets. 6 or 7 grips per set. 1 minute of 7 seconds hanging, 3 seconds rest per grip. 2 and a half minutes rest between grips, and 6 minutes between sets. That’s your basic structure, tweak it as necessary. You should aim to have the intensity such that you fail on the last second of each minute. These is the grip types I have been using on the beastmaker 2000:

    30 minute progressive warmup.

    Half crimp on 15mm rung – I find 4 finger too easy, but 3 too hard, so I alternate one hand with 3 fingers the other 4.

    Slopers – again, I find the 35′s too easy and the 45′s too hard. I used to use 3 fingers on the 35 to make it harder, now I use hand on the 35 and one hand on the 45′s, but use my thumb and nestle my index against the crease to make it possible. Just.

    3 finger drag on 15mm rung

    Half crimp again – I feel like this is one of my weaker grips and is used often in climbing which is why I do it twice

    Middle 2 small pockets

    Back 2 – one hand in back 2 pocket, one hand in medium pocket

    front 2 small pockets
Some previous posts on this topic include 321s, the Metolius routines, the Moon Deadhanging routine and finally some thoughts on Digit Strength.


Chuck said...

this is interesting. i may incorporate some hangboard like training for my grip sport strength.

Asclepius said...

The Repeater method (basically the Beastmaker routine), is widely used and adapted nowadays by most climbers. (Ben and Chris's programs above are variations on this.)

Guaranteed to give you SOLID finger strength!

I guess I don't have to tell to you go easy on this stuff if you've never done it before (and especially if you are over about 70kg). You can easily fry those tendons and pulleys!

Chuck said...

i probably will not invest in a hangboard but i could mount a 2x4 and hang from that. i will start slow. i am hoping it could help me with my blob lifts and hub lifts.

my hands are not big so the ends of my fingers need to be really strong.

Asclepius said...

Good vids! I like the hub lift!

With regard to the hangboard or fingerboard you can easily make your own with a piece of plywood and some odd ends of wood of varying depth.

Just makes sure there are no sharp edges, just nicely rounded ones!

Asclepius said...

I made my own campus board but did buy some 'proper' rungs for it. A campus board is really just an extended version of a simple fingerboard. You can see it in the background of this shot (apologies for nudity!)

Mabel Margaret said...

Thank you for sharing amazing video on finger strength.

finger strength