Easy as 321

The guys at Beastmaker have some brutal training trips for finger strength.

I like to post stuff like this up here as it means that I can browse these ideas on my phone when wanting to pull down a 'random' training program. I was thinking of 3-5 sets of 3-9 second hangs with rests of one minute in between sets (all on one arm at a time - if possible).

4 finger open hand large hold
4 finger open hand small hold
3 finger open hand - front
3 finger open hand - back
3 finger open hand - front - smaller hold
3 finger open hand - back - smaller hold
4 finger half crimp
4 finger full crimp
2 finger pocket - back
2 finger pocket - front

Although the goal is one armed hanging, it is possible to set up bungies or a pulley system to offset the strain. You could use two arms for some of the hangs, but one arm training is more intense due to the bilateral strength deficit- the difference in maximal or near-maximal force generating capacity of muscles when they are contracted alone and in combination with the contralateral muscles. (i.e. you might be able to perform a pull up with twice your bodyweight, but that does not mean you can do a one arm pull up).

Climbing Workout

Hmmm - a big step backwards on the deadhanging today! My fingers really did not fire. I took it in my stride. No point getting worked up about it. I need to rest. I think Doug at BBS has the answer to my problem!

I was trying a rep scheme of 5/3/1.

Warm Up (5 mins)
Main (10 mins)
1a) Laddering (5/3/1x15-rung)
1b) L-Sit Muscle Ups to Basic Ring Routine to Lever (3x5/3/1 on MUs)
1c) Ring Scissors (3x5/3/1 scissors)

The last set was done slowly in each case to ensure maximal effort. I finished with a ten-minute deadhanging routine. I think I need a bit more rest after deadhanging! I climbed outdoors on Saturday and suspect that I was not fully recovered.

Statin Article

The energy that Mark puts in to "Mark's Daily Apple" is second to none. Anyone new to paleo should make this one of their top sites to visit.

He recently flagged up this excellent article in The Huffington Post. If you have spent some time following the paleo model, there will be nothing new here regarding statins/cholesterol - but as Mark notes, this is "another major sign conventional wisdom is starting to crack"!

Taubes Interview

Another interview with Gary Taubes in which he succinctly presents his theory on why we get fat! (Hat tip to Don at Primal Wisdom)

Strength

The aim was four sets of the main sequence (2a-2f):

Warm Up (5 mins)
Main (20 mins)
1a) 15s Sprint to Fig Eights (2x30s, one minute rest between each set)

2a) HSPU (3, 3, 2, 2)
2b) Alternative Leg Pistol (3, 3, 2, 2)
2c) Tuck Planche (4x5s)
2d) Tuck Lever (4x5s)
2e) Alternate One Arm Lock-Off to Lower (3, 3, 2, 2)
2f) Wall Walks (4x3)

All pistols were free and unassisted - which is a bit of progress. Reckon I could have done an extra one on the last set. The negative phase of the exercise was under good control as well.

The HSPUs felt a tad awkward and I was using my heels against the pillar for some assistance, but largely my arms were doing the work and feeling stronger.

This variety and intensity that I am using seems to be really giving me good gains. I intend (!), to post about why I chose to perform sets and reps the way I do - at some point in the future. It certainly beats three sets of ten for gains!

Behind the Headlines

Dr Alicia White has written a useful little guide that is worth consulting when next you come across a big news story regarding health, fitness, illness and medicine. Serious journalism is in short supply. Arm yourself.

Arthur Jones Nautilus Bulletin No.1

I happened across this stuff from Arthur Jones. The 'spirit' of his approach reminds me very much of that in the 5BX book I posted on earlier.

You can't help thinking that these older guys had it largely sussed and that much of what passes for fitness advice now has not only been polluted by the late 70s and early 80s fitness crazes, but now spends to much sweating the detail. Add to that a generous topping of marketing hype premised on the multi million dollar supplement industry and you have a recipe for making some people rich!